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Microgreen Lighting: Best Grow Lights After Years of Testing

We've been growing microgreens since 2018, and we've tested countless lighting setups along the way. Different bulbs, intensities, budgets, and fixture styles. Honestly, lighting is still one of our favorite things to experiment with because it has such a dramatic impact on how microgreens grow.

Here's what we've learned: lighting affects far more than just plant height. The right light influences even growth, stem strength, color, and cotyledon size, and research suggests it can influence nutrient content too. Light is also one of the easiest things to get wrong.

Too little light? You get stretching and legginess. Too much light? You risk stress or bleaching. Balance is everything.

If you're brand new to growing, start with our Beginner's Guide to Growing Microgreens or grab the $3.99 printable Beginner's Guide PDF for a full walkthrough before getting deep into lighting. You can also browse our microgreen grow lights and setup hub for shelf and fixture basics in one place.

Sunflower microgreens growing in deep sprouting tray under purple LED grow lights

Quick Answer: What's the Best Lighting for Growing Microgreens?

The best lighting for growing microgreens at home is a daylight-spectrum LED shop light in the 5500 to 6500K range, sitting about 8 to 12 inches above the canopy, on a 16 to 17 hour on, 7 to 8 hour off schedule. Our standard setup since 2018 is three 20-watt LED shop lights per shelf, which adds up to roughly 6,000 lumens (about 2,000 per light). That grows good microgreens, and in our own side-by-side tests, stronger T8 grow lights and LED panels produced heavier harvests and richer color. White LEDs are a solid all-around choice in the research too, though the best spectrum and intensity vary by crop.

The Science Behind Microgreen Lighting

Before diving into specific products and setups, let's talk about what makes good lighting for microgreens.

Light Spectrum: Why Color Matters

Research published in peer-reviewed agricultural journals has shown that different wavelengths of light can influence both the physiology and the shape of microgreens. The catch is that the response often depends on the crop. One study found blue light gave greater fresh weight in amaranth and turnip greens at the same intensity, while another found red light increased fresh weight in radish and turnip greens.

Here's what the different parts of the light spectrum are generally associated with:

Blue Light (440 to 470nm)

  • Often associated with compact growth and higher chlorophyll production
  • In some studies, blue light raised vitamin C and phenolic compounds in certain crops
  • Stretching is driven mostly by too little light overall, so blue is not a fix for a light that is too weak or too far away

Red Light (640 to 680nm)

  • Often associated with stem elongation and leaf expansion
  • In one study, red light increased fresh weight in radish and turnip greens, and polyphenol content was highest under red
  • Responses differ by crop, so red-heavy light is not automatically better for everything

Green Light (500 to 600nm)

  • Penetrates deeper into the plant canopy than red or blue
  • Contributes to photosynthesis in lower leaves
  • Adds to biomass when combined with red and blue

Full Spectrum / Daylight (5500 to 6500K)

  • Approximates natural sunlight
  • Provides balanced wavelengths for all growth stages
  • Simplifies lighting decisions for beginners
  • Our go-to recommendation for most growers

Because the response is so crop-specific, there is no single magic red-to-blue ratio for every microgreen. That is one of the reasons we default to white light and watch how each crop responds.

Why We Use 5500 to 6500K Daylight Spectrum Lights

After testing everything from specialized grow lights to basic shop lights, our standard setup is still a basic LED shop light in the 5500 to 6500K range. Here's what the research says about white light:

  • In a study on kale microgreens published in MDPI Antioxidants, microgreens grown under white LEDs had higher levels of carotenoids, including lutein, beta-carotene, and alpha-carotene, than those grown under red or blue LEDs.
  • A 2024 kale study in Agronomy found white LEDs were the most suitable for accumulating carotenoids and chlorophylls (both a and b).
  • The same 2024 study found that adding blue light to white raised phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity, so specialized lights can offer something extra.

The takeaway is not that white light wins every category. It is that white LEDs are a strong all-around choice, and the practical advantages are hard to beat:

  • Lower cost and easier availability
  • Better visual assessment of plant health (true colors, not purple light)
  • Simple setup with proven results
  • Good performance across the crops we grow

This is exactly why our standard setup uses three 20-watt LED shop lights in the 5500 to 6500K range per shelf. You can find the exact lights we use in our Grow Lights We Love list. One note: manufacturers sometimes update their lights without telling anyone, so the output of a current model may not match what we measured in older videos. Check the specs on the label before you buy.

Light Intensity: How Much is Enough?

For plants, the most accurate way to measure light is PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density), measured in µmol/m²/s, which counts the light plants can use (PAR, 400 to 700nm). Most consumer lights are rated in lumens or watts instead. Lumens measure light the way human eyes see it, which is why viewers kept reminding us that lumens are for humans and PAR is for plants. We bought a PAR meter ourselves for that reason.

Published studies have tested everything from roughly 30 to 600 µmol/m²/s, and the best intensity depends on the crop and what you are trying to optimize:

  • Brassica microgreens did well at fairly modest intensities in several studies, with about 50 µmol/m²/s giving the best broccoli growth and about 70 µmol/m²/s best for Chinese kale in one set of trials.
  • Arugula under white LEDs reached its highest yield at about 358 µmol/m²/s, with 90% of that maximum yield at about 234, in a plant factory study.
  • Red beet microgreens yielded the most at the low and medium intensities tested (120 and 160 µmol/m²/s), and yield dropped about 22% at 220, in a 2023 Horticulturae study.
  • Across studies, lower intensity tended to give longer, stretchier stems, while higher intensity tended to raise antioxidant activity.

Most home growers do not have a PAR meter, so we use shelf benchmarks based on lumens, which are printed on most product labels. Here is what we recommend, from our own testing and the book we wrote:

  • A good baseline is at least 6,000 lumens per shelf, which read about 75 to 85 PAR on our meter. Three 20-watt LED lights at about 2,000 lumens each get you there.
  • Our happy medium is about 15,000 lumens per shelf, which read about 150 to 230 PAR on our meter. We reach it with three 40-watt T8 LED lights at about 5,000 lumens each.
  • Too much light can bleach, stunt, and even kill microgreens, but it takes a lot of light to get there.

Photoperiod: Light Duration Matters

Photoperiod refers to how long lights stay on each day. Most home growers use 16 to 17 hours, and our testing has settled on 17 hours on, 7 hours off as our sweet spot.

The research on photoperiod is more mixed than most people expect. In the same red beet study, a 16-hour photoperiod raised phenolic compounds by 32%, total betalains by 49%, and antioxidant capacity by 25% compared to 12 hours. But yield dropped by 23%, and the 12-hour photoperiod used less electricity. So a longer day is a trade-off, not a free upgrade, and different crops may respond differently. What we can tell you is that 17 hours on, 7 hours off has worked consistently in our own grow space.

One thing worth saying up front: when lights come on matters as much as how long they stay on. Turning lights on too early, before the tray has finished its weighted and blackout phase, is one of the most common reasons trays stay short and stunted. We break that down in why your microgreens are staying short and in our weight to blackout transition guide.

What Our Own Light Tests Showed

Alongside the research, we've run our own side-by-side light tests. All three used 10x20 trays on coco coir, a 9-day grow, and harvest weight as the main measure. These are first-hand results from our grow space, so treat them as our experience, not a universal verdict.

Test 1: T5 Fluorescent vs. T5 LEDs (Kale)

  • Lacinato kale, 20 g of seed, 6 of the 9 days in light
  • Wattage: 54W for the fluorescent lights and 20W for the LEDs
  • The LED groups showed more coloration and were the winner in harvest weight
  • Appearance was a tie, and the T5 HO fluorescent won on taste, though the flavor was nearly identical

Test 2: Basic LEDs vs. Grow Lights (Rambo Radish)

  • Rambo radish, 20 g of seed, 5 of the 9 days in light
  • Wattage: 20W lights for the basic LED groups and 42W for the pink and blurple T8 lights
  • The group of three basic 20W LEDs was the least developed
  • The blurple T8s won on harvest weight, and the pink T8s were the overall winner

Test 3: Fluorescent vs. LEDs vs. Panel Lights (Rambo Radish)

  • Rambo radish, 25 g of seed, 5 of the 9 days in light
  • The panel lights had the darkest coloration, the most uniform growth, the best overall appearance, and the highest harvest weight
  • The T5 HO fluorescent had the best flavor
  • The panel lights were the overall winner

What we take from these: three basic 20W LEDs grow good microgreens, and stronger lights can give you heavier harvests and richer color. Flavor differences were small, and fluorescent held a slight edge there. Stronger lights also use more electricity, which we cover below. We cover one of these comparisons in depth in our fluorescent vs. LED lighting experiment, and we share the stats on lights we buy in our Video Library.

Our Recommended Lighting Setups

Based on years of hands-on testing combined with current research, here are our lighting recommendations for different scenarios:

For Standard Grow Racks (Most Popular)

Our Setup

  • Three 20-watt LED shop lights per shelf (find our exact picks in our Grow Lights We Love list)
  • Color temperature: 5500 to 6500K (daylight spectrum)
  • Total output: about 6,000 lumens per shelf (roughly 2,000 lumens per light)
  • Positioned about 8 to 12 inches above the canopy. Most growers sit lights about 10 inches above the tops of the trays, and we prefer about 8 inches
  • Lights spaced across the shelf so the light spreads evenly over the trays
  • Timer set for 17 hours on, 7 hours off

If you grow tall crops like peas, nasturtium, or buckwheat, give the lights more room so the plants do not grow into them. We have used mixed shelf heights in the past, with 12 inches shelf to shelf on the top shelves and 10 inches below, and the extra two inches helped tall speckled peas.

This setup works well for growing microgreens on reusable silicone grow mediums, soil, or coco coir in standard 10x20 trays. For a full breakdown of how to build a complete grow rack from scratch, see our professional grow rack setup guide, or grab the rack, tent, and lights together from our Build Your Own Grow Shelf list.

Why we like this setup

  • Affordable initial investment
  • Energy efficient
  • Easy to scale (add more shelves)
  • Widely available
  • Consistent, proven results in our space
  • Plenty of light to grow good microgreens across the crops we grow

T5 LED Lights (Beginner-Friendly)

T5 LED lights are one of the most beginner-friendly options for microgreens. These typically come in 20-watt configurations at about 2,000 lumens each, and they provide moderate intensity that's easy to dial in.

Setup recommendations

  • Use 3 T5 lights per shelf to reach our 6,000 lumen baseline. Two lights will fall short of it
  • Position 8 to 12 inches above trays
  • Adjust height if you see stretching or bleaching

T5s provide enough light for healthy growth without overwhelming beginners with too many variables. The lower intensity also means more forgiveness with positioning, so you are less likely to bleach microgreens.

T8 LED Lights (Stronger Growth)

T8 LED lights are a step up from T5s, typically offering 40 watts and about 5,000 lumens per fixture. Three per shelf reaches our 15,000 lumen happy medium. These can really improve color development and overall growth quality.

What we've noticed with T8s

  • In our light test on Rambo radish, 40W-class T8 grow lights out-yielded a group of three basic 20W LEDs
  • Deeper, more vibrant colors in varieties like red cabbage and amaranth
  • Thicker, sturdier stems
  • Better cotyledon expansion

Important note: T8s require more attention to distance. Too close and you risk light stress or bleaching. We recommend starting at 12 inches above trays and adjusting based on plant response.

Find T8 and other lights we've tested in our Grow Lights We Love list.

Panel-Style Grow Lights (Advanced Option)

For growers wanting professional-grade results or growing crops beyond microgreens, panel-style LED grow lights like the Spider Farmer SF1000 (100W) offer excellent performance. Panel lights won our third light test on harvest weight, coloration, and uniformity.

Benefits of panel lights

  • Higher light output than shop lights
  • Full-spectrum designs
  • Dimmable controls
  • In our experience, a stronger light for the last stretch of a grow can give microgreens a final boost

Drawbacks

  • Higher upfront cost
  • Overkill for microgreens alone in many home setups
  • May require dimming for optimal microgreen growth
  • More heat and electricity than shop lights
  • Some panels do not spread light evenly enough for tight shelf spacing, so check the coverage area before you buy

We use panel lights primarily for our aeroponic systems, our DIY deep water culture systems, and other indoor plants, but they work for microgreens when properly positioned and potentially dimmed.

How Light Affects Microgreen Quality

Beyond basic growth, lighting impacts several quality factors that matter to both growers and consumers.

Nutritional Content

Light can influence what is in your microgreens, but the effects depend on the crop and the light, so treat these as research findings rather than promises:

  • White LEDs gave higher carotenoids and chlorophylls in kale microgreens in two studies
  • Adding blue light to white raised phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity in kale
  • Higher intensity tended to raise antioxidant activity in a study of Brassicaceae microgreens
  • A longer photoperiod raised antioxidant compounds in red beet microgreens, at the cost of lower yield

For more on the nutritional research behind microgreens generally, the University of Maryland's landmark microgreen nutrient study is a great resource, and our blog on why microgreens are so good for you breaks the findings down by crop family.

Color Development

Light quality and intensity affect the visual appeal of microgreens. We've noticed:

  • Stronger lights sometimes produce deeper coloration, including colors we had not seen under weaker lights. In our tests the LED groups showed more coloration than fluorescent, and the panel lights showed the darkest
  • Deep greens come from adequate light intensity
  • Pale or yellow greens after several days in the light can mean there is not enough light. Yellow right out of blackout is completely normal, and the cotyledons green up within 24 to 48 hours under light
  • A bleached appearance suggests too much light too close

If you want a preference, not a rule: our personal favorite for color and growth effects is a stronger light of about 150 to 300 PAR in the 3500K to 5500K range. We have found it is not the best fit for commercial production, so we do not treat it as a standard recommendation.

Flavor Profiles

Light can change how microgreens look, but its effect on flavor was small in our tests. In our kale test the flavor was nearly identical across lights, and the T5 HO fluorescent edged out the LEDs on taste in two of our tests. Published research on how light spectrum changes flavor is thin, so we do not promise a flavor change from swapping lights.

Stem and Leaf Structure

Proper lighting creates the structural characteristics everyone wants:

  • Strong, thick stems from adequate intensity
  • Full cotyledons from sufficient light reaching all parts of the plant
  • Compact, sturdy plants, since low light is what stretches them
  • An even canopy from uniform light distribution
Colorful celosia microgreens growing in 10x20 tray under proper grow lighting

Common Lighting Mistakes (And How to Fix Them)

Since 2018, we've made plenty of mistakes and learned from them. Here are the most common issues. For a broader list of microgreen pitfalls, see our top microgreen growing mistakes guide.

Mistake #1: Lights Too Far Away

Signs

  • Leggy, stretched microgreens
  • Thin stems
  • Slow growth
  • Pale color after several days in the light

Fix: Lower lights toward 8 inches above the canopy.

Mistake #2: Lights Too Close

Signs

  • Bleached or whitish leaves
  • Stunted growth
  • Crispy edges on cotyledons

Fix: Raise lights to 10 to 12 inches and monitor. LEDs produce less heat than older technologies, but light intensity can still cause stress.

Mistake #3: Inconsistent Photoperiod

Signs

  • Irregular growth patterns
  • Some trays developing faster than others
  • Difficulty predicting harvest timing

Fix: Use a reliable timer. We use programmable timers set for 17 hours on, 7 hours off, every single day.

Mistake #4: Uneven Light Distribution

Signs

  • Microgreens growing toward one side
  • Better growth under certain areas of the shelf
  • Inconsistent color across trays

Fix: Use multiple light fixtures per shelf and space them out for even coverage. Spreading three lights across the shelf evens out coverage in our setup.

Mistake #5: Overlooking Color Temperature

Signs

  • Acceptable growth but not optimal
  • Colors seem off
  • Growth slower than expected

Fix: Color temperature changes results. In our testing, two lights with nearly identical PAR output but different color temperatures (4500K and 6500K) gave yields that differed by up to 30%. We stick with 5500 to 6500K (daylight or cool white) as our standard. Very warm white bulbs in the 2700 to 3000K range are made for living spaces, and we have not tested them for microgreens, so we cannot vouch for them.

Lighting by Growing Method

Different growing setups may need slightly adjusted lighting approaches:

Soil or Coco Coir Growing

When growing on soil or coco coir in trays, standard LED shop lights work well.

Recommendations

  • 2 to 3 LED lights per shelf (3 reaches our 6,000 lumen baseline)
  • 8 to 12 inches above the soil surface
  • Start lights after the blackout phase, once seedlings have pushed up and emerged

Need coco coir? We no longer carry it, but this is the coco coir we use and recommend.

Reusable Silicone Grow Medium (Hydroponic)

Growing on our reusable silicone grow medium takes the same lighting as soil or coco coir. Water that sits on a wet surface under bright light can grow algae, so keep the air moving and avoid letting water pool on the surface. For the full story on the silicone medium itself, see our reusable silicone grow medium launch blog, our seed compatibility guide for which seeds work best on it, and the reusable grow medium guide for sizes, care, and FAQ.

Recommendations

  • Same intensity as soil growing
  • Bottom water so the surface is not constantly wet
  • Good airflow helps prevent algae even under bright lights

Kratky or Aeroponic Systems

For Kratky systems or aeroponic setups, you may want more light if you are growing larger, more mature plants than a standard microgreen tray.

Recommendations

  • 3 LED lights minimum per shelf
  • Consider T8 (40W) instead of T5 (20W)
  • Or use panel lights for larger plants

Budget-Friendly vs. Premium Options

Lighting doesn't have to break the bank, but investing more can give you heavier harvests and richer color, as our tests showed. These price ranges are rough and change often, so check current prices.

Budget Setup (roughly $50 to $100 per shelf)

Start with 2 to 3 basic LED shop lights from a hardware store or online:

  • Look for 20W fixtures at about 2,000 lumens each
  • Choose 5500 to 6500K color temperature
  • Add a simple timer

This basic setup will grow perfectly good microgreens for home use.

Mid-Range Setup (roughly $100 to $200 per shelf)

Upgrade to higher-quality fixtures:

This is what we use for most of our microgreen production. It's the sweet spot of cost and performance.

Premium Setup (roughly $200 to $400+ per shelf)

For commercial growers or serious hobbyists:

  • Panel-style grow lights with optimized spectrum like the Spider Farmer SF1000
  • Dimmable controls
  • Higher light output than shop lights
  • Advanced timers with sunrise/sunset simulation

Browse our Amazon storefront to find options at every budget level, including grow tents if you want to contain the light and control your climate at the same time.

Energy Efficiency and Operating Costs

One major advantage of LED lighting is energy efficiency. Let's break down the costs:

Example: Standard 3-Light Shelf Setup

Specifications

  • Three 20W LED lights = 60W total
  • Running 17 hours per day
  • Electricity cost: about $0.18 per kWh, which is roughly the U.S. residential average the Energy Information Administration forecasts for 2026

Monthly cost calculation (lights on every day)

  • Daily usage: 60W x 17 hours = 1,020 watt-hours = 1.02 kWh
  • Monthly usage: 1.02 kWh x 30 days = 30.6 kWh
  • Monthly cost: 30.6 x $0.18 = about $5.51 per shelf

That is the ceiling, since it assumes the lights never take a day off. Trays only need light after blackout, which in our grows is roughly 5 to 9 days of the cycle. At about $0.18 per shelf per day, a shelf of four trays (the layout we describe in our book) costs roughly $0.92 to $1.65 in lights per grow, or about $0.23 to $0.41 per tray.

Your local rate is the variable that moves these numbers the most, so plug in your own cost per kWh rather than ours. Photoperiod matters too: in the red beet study, the 12-hour day used less electricity than the 16-hour day.

Comparing Light Types

LED Shop Lights (20 to 40W)

  • Lowest operating cost
  • Long rated lifespan (50,000+ hours)
  • Minimal heat output
  • The most efficient of the three types

Fluorescent (if still using)

  • Higher energy use for the same light output. In our kale test, each T5 HO fluorescent drew 54W versus 20W for each T5 LED
  • Shorter lifespan
  • Contains mercury (disposal concerns)
  • Being phased out. Several states have banned or restricted the sale of most fluorescent tubes, so availability is shrinking

Panel Grow Lights (100W+)

  • Higher operating cost
  • Professional results, and the winner of our panel test
  • Better for larger operations
  • Worth it if growing at scale

We ran fluorescent and LED side by side on Rambo Radish to see how much of a difference it actually made. One of the full comparisons is in our fluorescent vs. LED lighting experiment.

Setting Up Your First Lighting System

Ready to get started? Here's our step-by-step process:

Step 1: Choose Your Rack

Start with a sturdy grow rack that can support lights and trays. We prefer metal shelving with adjustable heights. For a full build walkthrough, see our professional grow rack setup guide.

Step 2: Select Your Lights

For beginners, we recommend starting with our proven 3-light setup using 20W LED shop lights in the 5500 to 6500K range. You can find the exact lights we use in our Grow Lights We Love list.

Step 3: Install Lights

Mount lights to the underside of each shelf and space them across the shelf, positioning them so they'll sit 8 to 12 inches above your growing trays.

Step 4: Add a Timer

Connect all lights to a timer set for 17 hours on, 7 hours off. We prefer starting lights at 6 AM and shutting off at 11 PM, but adjust to your schedule.

Step 5: Test and Adjust

Grow your first batch and watch carefully:

  • Are microgreens stretching? Lower lights
  • Seeing bleaching or stress? Raise lights
  • Slow growth? Add more lights or lower them

Advanced Tips From Our Lighting Tests

Tip #1: Light Height Adjustment

As microgreens grow, the distance to the light naturally shrinks. We don't typically adjust light height during a grow cycle, and in our experience that gradual change works fine.

Our approach

  • Set lights about 8 to 12 inches above the tops of empty trays
  • Leave them in place while the canopy rises
  • For tall crops like peas, nasturtium, and buckwheat, start higher so they don't grow into the lights

Tip #2: Reflective Surfaces

Adding reflective material around your grow area (white walls, mylar, aluminum foil) bounces light back onto your trays instead of letting it escape. We simply keep our grow area walls painted bright white.

Tip #3: Clean Your Lights

Dust buildup on fixtures cuts light output over time. Wipe lights down monthly to maintain full brightness.

Tip #4: Track Your Results

Keep notes on:

  • Which lights you used
  • Distance from plants
  • Photoperiod length
  • Microgreen variety
  • Growth results

Over time, you'll dial in perfect settings for your space and favorite varieties.

This is exactly why we built Microgreen Tracker, our grow-tracking web app. Every tray has its own notes field and links back to the seed lot it was sown from, so when a batch comes out leggy or bleached you can look back at the notes you wrote about the light and the distance instead of relying on memory. You can also add your lights under Equipment with their wattage and daily hours, and the app adds electricity to each tray's cost. It sends web push reminders for watering, harvest, and delivery at times you pick, which pairs well with a fixed lighting schedule. It runs in any phone or desktop browser and installs to your home screen, and every new grower starts with a 7-day free trial of the whole app.

Tip #5: Experiment Wisely

Try different setups, but change only one variable at a time. Testing new lights? Keep everything else the same. This way you know what's working.

Variety-Specific Lighting Notes

Through our testing, we've noticed some varieties respond differently to lighting:

Light-Hungry Varieties (need more intensity)

Standard Light Requirements

Lower Light Tolerance (but still need adequate light)

  • Beet greens
  • Lettuce
  • Mizuna

All of these will grow under our standard 3-light setup, but fine-tuning for specific crops can improve results. Remember that tall crops such as peas, nasturtium, and buckwheat also need more space between the light and the trays. If you're still building out your crop list, our overview of how many types of microgreens there are is a good place to browse.

Troubleshooting Guide

For more problems beyond lighting, our microgreen troubleshooting hub collects our guides in one place.

Problem: Leggy, Stretched Microgreens

Possible causes

  • Insufficient light intensity
  • Lights too far away
  • Weight removed too early during blackout

Solutions

  • Add more lights or switch to higher wattage
  • Lower lights toward 8 inches above the canopy
  • Keep the weight on for the full blackout period

Problem: Pale or Yellow Microgreens

First, check the timing. Microgreens come out of blackout pale yellow, and that is normal. They green up within 24 to 48 hours under light. If they are still pale after several days in the light, look at these causes.

Possible causes

  • Not enough light
  • Nutrient deficiency (if growing on an inert medium)
  • Lights not on long enough

Solutions

Problem: Short, Stunted Microgreens

Possible causes

  • Lights turned on too early, before the tray finished its blackout phase
  • Water quality or temperature issues
  • Missing fertilizer on an inert medium

Solutions

Problem: Uneven Growth

Possible causes

  • Uneven light distribution
  • Single light source
  • Crowded trays blocking light

Solutions

  • Use multiple lights per shelf (we use 3)
  • Rotate trays halfway through growth
  • Give trays adequate spacing

Problem: Bleached or Crispy Leaves

Possible causes

  • Lights too close
  • Too much intensity
  • Heat stress (rare with LEDs)

Solutions

  • Raise lights to 10 to 12 inches
  • Reduce the number of lights or switch to lower wattage
  • Ensure adequate air circulation

There's No Single Perfect Light

Here's the truth we've learned since we started growing in 2018: there's no one-size-fits-all perfect light for everyone. When people ask what the best light is, our honest answer is that it depends.

Your ideal lighting setup depends on:

  • Space size: Small countertop vs. full room
  • Rack configuration: Shelf height and width
  • Number of trays: Growing 2 or 20 at a time
  • Budget: What you can invest upfront
  • Goals: Home use vs. selling at market
  • Varieties: What you're growing most often
  • Electricity costs: Varies by location

This is why testing and adjusting over time matters so much. Lighting is one of the biggest levers you can pull to improve your grows.

Our Current Favorite Setup

After testing everything from basic shop lights to professional horticultural panels, here's what we've settled on for our main microgreen production:

Configuration

Why this works for us

  • Affordable and scalable
  • Consistent, reliable results
  • Energy efficient
  • Easy to replace parts
  • Grows microgreens we're proud to harvest
  • White light is a research-supported choice for carotenoid and chlorophyll content in kale microgreens

Frequently Asked Questions About Microgreen Lighting

What kind of light do microgreens need?

Microgreens grow best under daylight-spectrum LED lights in the 5500 to 6500K range. White LEDs are a solid all-around choice, and in research on kale microgreens they produced the highest carotenoid and chlorophyll levels. Specialty red and blue grow lights can work too, but they aren't necessary to grow good microgreens.

How many hours of light do microgreens need per day?

Most home growers use 16 to 17 hours of light per day, followed by 7 to 8 hours of darkness. Our standard setting at On The Grow is 17 hours on, 7 hours off, run on a programmable timer for consistency.

How far should grow lights be from microgreens?

Position grow lights about 8 to 12 inches above the canopy. Most growers use about 10 inches above the tops of the trays, and we prefer about 8 inches. Give tall crops like peas, nasturtium, and buckwheat more room. If you see stretching, lower the lights. If you see bleaching or crispy edges, raise them.

Can microgreens grow without grow lights?

Yes, microgreens can grow on a bright south-facing windowsill, but expect slower growth and more legginess compared to artificial lighting. If space is tight, our guide to the best microgreens for small spaces is a good place to start. For consistent, repeatable results, a basic LED shop light setup is one of the highest-leverage upgrades a beginner can make.

Do microgreens need purple grow lights?

No. Standard daylight-spectrum white LEDs (5500 to 6500K) grow good microgreens, and white light also lets you judge plant health more accurately, since you can see true colors instead of purple-tinted leaves. That said, stronger lights can make a difference. In our tests, blurple and pink T8 grow lights out-yielded a group of three basic 20W LEDs, so the extra light output matters more than the color.

Are LED panel lights better than shop lights for microgreens?

In our tests, panel lights and 40W-class T8 grow lights produced heavier harvests and richer color than basic 20W LED shop lights. They also cost more upfront and use more electricity, and some panels do not spread light evenly at tight shelf spacing. For most home growers, three 20W LED shop lights per shelf are plenty, and panels or T8s are an upgrade for growers who want to push further.

When should I turn the lights on during a grow?

Not until the tray has finished its weighted and blackout phase, which for most crops is around day 3 to day 5 depending on variety. In our kale and radish tests, trays went under light on about day 4 to day 5. Turning lights on too early is one of the most common causes of short, stunted trays. Wait until the canopy is actively pushing the top tray up, then move it under light.

What's the cheapest grow light setup for microgreens?

A budget setup runs roughly $50 to $100 per shelf using 2 to 3 basic LED shop lights in the 5500 to 6500K range, plus a simple timer. Prices change, so check current listings. This produces good home-quality microgreens.

How much does it cost to run microgreen grow lights?

Our standard setup (three 20W LEDs running 17 hours a day at about $0.18 per kWh) costs about $5.51 per month per shelf if the lights run every day. Trays only spend roughly 5 to 9 days under light, which works out to about $0.23 to $0.41 per tray on a four-tray shelf. Your own rate per kWh will change those figures, so run the math with your local number.

Final Thoughts

Lighting can seem complicated at first, but it doesn't have to be. Start with a simple, proven setup like our three-light configuration and grow from there. Pay attention to how your microgreens respond, make small adjustments, and keep notes on what works.

The beauty of microgreens is their short growth cycle. If a lighting experiment doesn't work perfectly, you'll know in 7 to 14 days and can adjust for the next batch.

Remember: the best light is the one that fits your space, budget, and goals. Both the research and our own testing show that simple daylight-spectrum LEDs grow good microgreens, and stronger lights can add harvest weight and color when you want to go further.

Want to see the exact lights we use and recommend? Check out our Grow Lights We Love list. For trays, growing mediums, and other supplies, visit our shop. And if you're looking for a deeper dive into all things microgreen education, start with our best microgreen growing advice and resources hub or our complete step-by-step guide to growing microgreens.

If you want comprehensive training on growing microgreens from start to finish, check out our Microgreen Masterclass. And when you're ready to start logging what each lighting change actually does to your trays, you can try Microgreen Tracker free for 7 days.

What lighting setup are you currently using? Have questions about upgrading or getting started? Drop them in the comments below. We love talking about lights!

Sources Cited

This blog references peer-reviewed research and public data including:

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This post contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. We only link to products we use and recommend.

The results and opinions shared in this post are based on our own first-hand testing in our specific, controlled grow space. Any mention of a brand or product reflects our own experience, not a sponsored or definitive review. Your climate, water, seed, and setup are different from ours, so your results can vary. We always encourage you to run your own experiments and see what works best for you.

The information in this blog is for educational purposes only and is not intended as medical or nutritional advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personal health guidance.

Accounts, subscriptions, billing, and support for Microgreen Tracker are handled at microgreentracker.com, not onthegrow.net.

Happy growing!

Updated: October 20, 2026
All content is property of On The Grow®, LLC

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