How to Grow Pea Microgreens (Pea Shoots): A Complete Guide

After more than seven years of growing microgreens commercially and at home, pea shoots are still one of the first crops we hand to anyone who tells us they are new to this. They are sweet, they are crunchy, they grow fast, and they are about as forgiving as a large seed gets. If you have ever bitten into a fresh pea shoot and tasted that clean, green, just-picked-pea flavor, you already understand the appeal.

This guide walks through everything we have learned about growing pea microgreens and pea shoots, from soaking and seeding to the mediumless mesh tray method we prefer, all the way to harvest, regrowth, and storage. If you have already grown broccoli microgreens or radish microgreens with us, peas are a fun next step because they grow a little differently than those small-seed brassicas.

Quick Answer: How to Grow Pea Microgreens

Pea microgreens, often sold as pea shoots, are easy to grow at home. Soak the seeds for 8 to 12 hours, then spread them densely across a bare mesh tray or a growing medium. Cover with weight in the dark for 3 to 5 days, move to light once stems push up, then bottom water until harvest. Most pea shoots are ready to cut in 8 to 14 days when they reach 3 to 5 inches tall. Peas can even regrow once for a second, smaller harvest.

Why Pea Microgreens Are Worth Growing

Peas land in a category we call large-seed heavy yielders, right alongside sunflower and wheatgrass. They take a little longer than fast brassicas and they need a pre-soak, but they reward you with one of the highest biomass yields of any tray you can grow. A well-seeded tray of peas literally weighs more at harvest than most other crops, which is part of why they are such strong commercial sellers.

Pea Shoots vs. Pea Microgreens: What's the Difference?

This trips up a lot of new growers, so let's clear it up. The terms are mostly used interchangeably. Both come from the same edible pea seed grown indoors and harvested young. The small difference is timing and height. A pea microgreen is harvested at the cotyledon and first-true-leaf stage, while pea shoots are often grown slightly taller, with a few more leaves and the first curling tendrils showing. Many growers, ourselves included, simply call them pea shoots once those tendrils appear. For this guide, treat them as the same crop grown to a slightly different finish.

The Nutrition Connection

Peas bring something a little different to the tray than leafy brassicas. They are a source of plant protein and fiber, along with vitamins A, C, K, and folate. Microgreens in general pack more nutrient density than you might expect for their size. The landmark 2012 study from the University of Maryland and USDA found that many microgreen varieties contained 4 to 40 times more nutrients than their mature counterparts. You can read the University of Maryland summary of the research here.

Other Reasons We Love Growing Peas

• The flavor is sweet and fresh, not spicy, so they work as a base green rather than just an accent.
• The large seed is easy to handle and easy to spread evenly.
• They are very forgiving for beginners once you get the soak and weight right.
• They produce a heavy, satisfying yield per tray.
• They are one of the few microgreens that will give you a second cutting.

A Quick Safety Note: Edible Peas vs. Ornamental Sweet Peas

This is important enough that we put it near the top. The peas you grow as microgreens are edible garden peas, Pisum sativum. There is a completely different plant called the ornamental sweet pea, Lathyrus odoratus, that is sold as a decorative flower. It shares part of the common name but it is toxic and should never be grown as food. Always buy seed sold specifically for sprouting or microgreen growing from a reputable supplier, and never use bird seed, animal feed, or seed treated with fungicide coatings. For more on this, see our microgreens seed quality and food safety guide.

Choosing the Right Pea Seed

There are a lot of pea varieties out there, and after testing many of them over the years, we have landed on clear favorites along with a couple we tend to struggle with. Here is where we have had the best luck:

• Dwarf Grey Sugar Snap pea: Tender stems, leafy growth, and minimal tendrils. One of our most reliable and abundant varieties.
• Speckled pea (dun pea): A beautiful in-between that gives you both leaves and the pretty pea tendrils. Grows abundantly.
• Tendril pea: The name says it all. Best tendrils of the bunch, just harvest promptly before they tangle.
• Yellow pea: Lush growth and pretty leaves.
• Sugar snap pea: Lush growth with a gentle tendril.

Green peas are hit or miss for us. Sometimes they germinate beautifully, and other times we end up with a tray of mold, ungerminated seeds, and that unmistakable foul smell of rotting peas. The two varieties we have never been able to get past germination, even after adjusting our soak times, are snow peas and Lincoln peas. Everything here is based on our own experience in our grow space, and your results can differ depending on your seed source, variety, and setup, so it is always worth running your own small test first.

Whichever you choose, buy fresh, food-safe seed in bulk so the cost per tray stays low. We have sourced our seed from True Leaf Market for over seven years. If you want a deeper look at why buying in bulk pays off for a heavy seed like peas, we cover that in our guide to buying microgreen seeds in bulk.

The Best Medium for Growing Pea Microgreens

Here is where peas grow a little differently than your average tray. Peas have aggressive root systems that tangle deeply into anything you give them, which makes some mediums harder to harvest and clean than others.

• Mesh tray with no medium (our preferred method): Peas grow exceptionally well directly on a bare mesh tray with nothing underneath them. The roots grip the mesh, the shoots grow up clean, and you skip the cost and mess of a single-use medium entirely.
• Soil or coco coir: Both work fine for peas. Coco coir bottom-waters nicely, and a quality seed-starting soil mix is the most forgiving option if you are brand new.
• 1.7mm large hole reusable silicone grow medium (secondary): If you prefer a medium, our 1.7mm large hole reusable silicone grow medium is built for larger seeds and aggressive roots like peas, sunflower, and wheatgrass. The larger hole size gives those thick pea roots room to anchor. It is a reusable, food-grade option.

If you are weighing your options across crops, our compatible microgreen seeds for reusable grow mediums guide breaks down what grows well on what.

Step-by-Step: How to Grow Pea Microgreens

Let's break this down step by step. These are the numbers and timing we use in our own grow space.

Step 1: Soak the Seeds

Peas are a large, hard seed, so they need a pre-soak. Rinse your seed, then soak it in clean, cool water for 8 to 12 hours. The seeds will swell to nearly double their size. After soaking, give them a final rinse and drain well. This soak jump-starts germination and gives you a more even tray. Stick to that window though. Soaking peas much longer than 12 hours, especially in warm water, can start to rot the seed before it ever has a chance to germinate.

Step 2: Prep Your Tray

If you are growing mediumless, give your mesh tray a light mist of clean water so the seeds make good contact. If you are using the 1.7mm silicone, mist it the same way, since seeds have a hard time sticking to a dry mesh surface. For soil or coco, pre-moisten about 6 cups of medium for a 10x20 tray and press it flat without packing it down hard.

Step 3: Seed the Tray

Peas seed heavy. For a standard 10x20 tray, use roughly 200 to 260 grams of dry seed (measured before soaking). For our 7x14 OTG Microgreen Tray Kit, use around 130 grams. Spread the soaked seeds in a single dense layer with the seeds nearly touching but not stacked on top of each other. Heavy stacking traps moisture and invites mold.

For a full breakdown of seed amounts and average harvest weights by tray type, including deep sprouting trays, see our guide to growing pea microgreens on various trays. And if you want exact rates for every crop and tray size, grab our Free Tray-Specific Microgreen Seeding Guide.

Step 4: Blackout and Weight

Cover the tray and put it somewhere dark. Peas are one of the crops that genuinely benefit from weight during this phase. Stack 5 to 15 pounds on top, using a flipped tray with weight on it or a humidity dome weighed down with something like water-filled mason jars. The pressure encourages strong, straight stems and good root contact. Mist twice a day if the surface looks dry. Peas usually stay in blackout for 3 to 5 days, a little longer than fast brassicas, since the large seed takes its time.

Step 5: Move to Light

Once the seedlings have pushed the weight up about half an inch and you see pale stems reaching, it is time for light. Within 24 to 48 hours those shoots green up. We run lights 16 to 17 hours on and 7 to 8 hours off, placed 8 to 12 inches above the canopy, using 5500 to 6500K LEDs. If your shoots are stretching tall and thin, your light is usually too far away or running too few hours. Our complete microgreen lighting guide covers all of this in detail. For more on the exact moment to lift the weight, see our weight to blackout timing guide.

Step 6: Water From the Bottom

Once your peas are in the light, stop misting from the top and switch to bottom watering. Pour water into the reservoir tray underneath. Start with about a quarter cup twice a day and increase as the plants grow, working up to as much as 2 cups per watering for a 10x20 at peak growth. Always check for leftover water before adding more, and never let the water line reach up into the seeds. The roots should reach down to the water while the seeds and crowns stay above it with air around them. Peas also do well with the Kratky method, where the tray sits over a larger water reservoir that you top off less often.

On coco coir and reusable silicone, we add Ocean Solution 2-0-3 at 0.5 ounce per gallon, kept at a pH of 5.5 to 6.0. On soil grows we usually skip liquid fertilizer, since most quality soil mixes are already nutrient rich and plain water does the job well. Every soil is different though, so some growers experiment with worm castings or other amendments. Our full how to water microgreens guide goes deeper on volumes and timing.

Step 7: Harvest

Most pea shoots are ready between day 8 and day 14, depending on variety, temperature, and how tall you want them. We like to harvest when the shoots are around 3 to 5 inches and the first tendrils are just starting to curl. Use a sharp knife or scissors and cut cleanly above the medium line, ideally in the morning. If you plan to try for a second harvest, cut a little higher (more on that below). A dedicated harvest knife makes clean work of a dense pea tray.

For a closer look at our cutting technique across different crops and tools, see what works best for harvesting microgreens, and browse our on-site Video Library for more tutorials.

Can You Regrow Pea Microgreens?

Yes, and this is one of the things that makes peas special. Peas can regrow once for a second, usually smaller, harvest. The trick is in how you cut the first time. Instead of cutting low at the base, cut higher up and leave the lowest leaf node or two on the stem. Those nodes are where the new growth comes from. Keep the tray watered and lit, and you will often get a lighter second cutting a week or so later. It will not match the first harvest, but it stretches your seed further. We cover which crops do this best in our guide on whether microgreens regrow after harvesting.

Pro Tips for Growing Pea Microgreens

• Do not skip the soak. Dry-seeded peas germinate slowly and unevenly. The 8 to 12 hour soak is the single biggest difference maker.
• Do not over-soak either. More is not better. Past about 12 hours your peas start breaking down instead of waking up.
• Rinse well after soaking. A good drain reduces the slimy film that can lead to mold on a dense pea tray.
• Use enough weight. Peas can lift a surprising amount. If your stems are uneven or sprawling, you probably needed more weight during blackout.
• Try mediumless first. Once you grow a clean pea tray on bare mesh, it is hard to go back. Less cost, less mess, easy cleanup.
• Watch your airflow. A dense, moist canopy is mold's favorite place. A small fan above the canopy keeps things happy.
• Harvest in the morning. Shoots are crisp and hydrated, and they store longer when cut cool.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

White Fuzz: Mold or Root Hairs?

This is the number one panic moment for new growers. Fine white fuzz at the base of the stems that disappears when you mist it is almost always healthy root hairs, not mold. Real mold spreads across leaves, stems, and seed hulls, does not wipe away with a mist, and often comes with a musty smell. Our mold prevention and identification guide shows exactly what each one looks like.

Mushy, Foul-Smelling Peas or Poor Germination

If your pea seeds turn mushy, give off a sour or foul rotting smell, and germinate poorly or not at all, they are rotting instead of growing. With peas this almost always comes down to one of three things: you soaked them too long, you are over-watering, or the seeds are sitting directly in water during the grow. Peas only need an 8 to 12 hour soak in cool water. Leaving them much longer, especially in warm water, starts to break the seed down before it can sprout, and the same thing happens when seeds stay waterlogged in the tray. Roots should reach down to the water in the reservoir, but the seeds and crowns need to stay above the water line with air around them. To fix it, stick to the 8 to 12 hour soak, rinse and drain well before planting, bottom water only, keep the water level below the seeds, and give the tray good airflow.

Leggy or Stretching Stems

Tall, thin, floppy shoots usually mean the light is too far away, the light schedule is too short, or the weight came off too early. Lower your lights to 8 to 12 inches, extend to 16 to 17 hours, and keep the weight on for the full blackout window.

Slow or Uneven Germination

Old seed, a skipped soak, or a cold room are the usual suspects. Use fresh seed, keep your germination space around 65 to 75F, and make sure you soaked long enough (but not too long).

Roots Tangling and Hard Cleanup

If you grew on a medium and the roots tangled into a mat that is tough to clean, that is peas being peas. Growing mediumless on mesh and harvesting promptly is the easiest fix. When you do clean up, our cleaning and sanitizing guide walks through getting that root mat off your trays.

How to Store Pea Microgreens After Harvest

Do not wash peas before storing. Moisture is what shortens shelf life. Instead, cut them dry, place them loosely in an airtight container lined with a dry paper towel, and refrigerate at around 35 to 40F. Stored this way, pea shoots usually stay crisp for 7 to 10 days. Give them a quick rinse only right before you eat them.

Ways to Use Pea Microgreens

Because pea shoots are sweet and mild rather than spicy, they shine as a base green, not just a garnish. Here are the ways we use them most:

• Salads and bowls: Use them as the base or a topping. Pair mild pea shoots with spicy radish for a balanced bite.
• Sandwiches, wraps, and tacos: Swap them in for lettuce. Pea shoots add crunch and a fresh, mild flavor.
• Smoothies: Blend them in raw with other mild greens like broccoli.
• Soups and hot dishes: Add them as a fresh finishing garnish at the table, never during cooking.
• Juicing: Pea shoots are a popular, mild juice addition.

Always add microgreens raw at the end, and rinse right before eating. For more ideas, see the many ways you can use microgreens.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do pea microgreens take to grow?

Most pea microgreens and pea shoots are ready to harvest in 8 to 14 days, with many growers cutting around day 10 to 12 when shoots reach 3 to 5 inches and the first tendrils appear.

Do you need to soak pea seeds before planting?

Yes. Peas are a large, hard seed and grow much more evenly after an 8 to 12 hour soak in clean, cool water. Rinse and drain well before seeding, and do not soak much past 12 hours or the seeds can begin to rot.

What do pea microgreens taste like?

They taste like fresh, sweet garden peas with a crisp, crunchy texture. Unlike spicy crops such as radish or mustard, they are mild enough to eat as a base green.

What is the best pea variety for microgreens?

Our favorites are Dwarf Grey Sugar Snap, Speckled (dun) pea, Tendril pea, Yellow pea, and Sugar Snap pea. Green peas are hit or miss for us, and we have struggled to get snow peas and Lincoln peas past germination. Results vary by seed source and setup, so it is worth testing a small batch first.

Can pea microgreens regrow after harvesting?

Yes, peas can regrow once for a second, smaller harvest. Cut high and leave the lowest leaf node or two on the stem, then keep the tray watered and lit.

What is the best medium for growing pea microgreens?

We prefer growing peas mediumless on a bare mesh tray because their aggressive roots grip the mesh and cleanup is easy. The 1.7mm large hole reusable silicone grow medium is a strong secondary option, and soil or coco coir both work well too.

Why are my pea microgreens mushy and foul-smelling?

That smell is rotting seed. It usually means you soaked too long, over-watered, or let the seeds sit directly in water during the grow. Keep to an 8 to 12 hour soak, rinse and drain well, bottom water only, and keep the water line below the seeds.

How dense should I seed pea microgreens?

Seed heavy. About 200 to 260 grams of dry seed for a 10x20 tray, or around 130 grams for a 7x14, spread in a single dense layer with seeds nearly touching but not stacked.

Can I grow pea microgreens without soil?

Absolutely. Peas are one of the best crops for soil-free growing. A bare mesh tray or the 1.7mm reusable silicone grow medium both let you grow clean pea shoots with no soil at all.

Final Thoughts

Pea shoots earn their spot as a beginner favorite and a commercial staple. Soak your seed, seed heavy, give them weight in the dark, then light and bottom water until those tendrils start to curl. Once you grow your first clean tray on bare mesh, peas might just become a permanent part of your rotation.

Just curious and want to learn for free? Browse our blog library for hundreds of free articles, visit our on-site Video Library for tutorials, and follow along with @onthegrowfarms on Instagram.

Ready to start growing? Pick up the Beginner's Guide to Growing Microgreens PDF, grab a 7x14 Microgreen Tray Kit to start small, or browse our reusable silicone grow mediums for a no-mess grow.

Ready to take it seriously? The Microgreen Masterclass covers everything we have learned in 7+ years of growing.

This post contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. We only link to products we use and recommend. See our full affiliate disclosure.

Nutritional information shared throughout this blog is based on commonly available research, peer-reviewed studies, and public health sources. We are not nutritionists, dietitians, or medical professionals, and nothing in this post should be taken as medical or nutritional advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personal dietary guidance.

Related Blogs

• How to Grow Pea Microgreens on Various Trays
• How to Grow Broccoli Microgreens
• How to Grow Radish Microgreens
• How to Start Growing Microgreens: A Beginner's Guide
• Complete Microgreen Lighting Guide (7 Years of Testing)
• How to Water Microgreens
• Will Microgreens Regrow After Harvesting?
• Why Are My Microgreens Moldy? (Mold vs. Root Hairs)
• Microgreens Seed Quality & Food Safety Guide

Happy growing!

Updated June 2026