How to Build a DIY NFT Hydroponic System: Complete Build-to-Harvest Guide

NFT stands for Nutrient Film Technique, and it is one of the most efficient hydroponic methods you can build at home. A thin film of nutrient water flows through shallow channels, passes over the roots, and recirculates back to a reservoir, so you use far less water than soil growing while giving roots both food and oxygen. We designed and built a custom 12-channel NFT system in our own grow space, ran it for a stretch, and learned a lot along the way. This guide walks you through how the system works, what it takes to build one, what we grew in it, and how to keep it running.

If you want the complete printable version with exact cut lists, measurements, a pre-build checklist, and our companion build videos, you can grab our printable DIY NFT Build Guide PDF. This blog is the full overview. The PDF is the shop-side companion you keep next to you while you build.

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What Is an NFT System and How Does It Work?

NFT is a recirculating hydroponic method. A pump pushes nutrient water to the high end of each channel, the water runs down a gentle slope as a shallow film, the roots drink from that film, and the water drains back into the reservoir to be used again. Because only a thin layer of water touches the roots, the upper root zone stays exposed to air, which is exactly the oxygen plants want.

The result is a low-waste, soilless setup with no weeds, no soil-borne pests, and no guessing about what your plants are getting. The open channels also make it easy to check root health at a glance, which is something you simply cannot do in soil. For growing larger volumes of leafy greens, herbs, microgreens, fodder, or edible flowers in a compact footprint, NFT is hard to beat.

Why We Built (and Later Took Down) Our NFT System

We love to build things and run experiments, and an NFT system is a fun, scalable project. CJ designed our original frame around a Maker Pipe structure and even 3D printed custom brackets to mount the lights cleanly. Once it was dialed in, the system largely took care of itself between daily checks. Our original build video has since been watched more than 145,000 times, and it remains one of the projects people ask us about most.

We are honest about the trade-offs, though. At the time we were working out of a 160 square foot space, and the NFT rack took up the footprint of two large grow racks. Since we were not selling our microgreens commercially, it produced more than we needed, and that space was more valuable to us for running lighting, fertilizer, and growing experiments. So we eventually took it down. The system itself is a good one. It just was not the right fit for where we were at the time. Our friend Sean from Molly's Micros took our original design and made it completely his own, adjusting dimensions, adding monitoring gear, and reinforcing the frame, which is exactly the spirit this build was meant for.

NFT vs. Other Hydroponic Methods

NFT is one of several hydroponic approaches we have built and documented. Each has a place depending on your space, budget, and crops:

• NFT (this build): Best for fast, shallow-rooted crops in volume. Efficient and scalable, but it relies on a continuously cycling pump.
• Deep Water Culture: Roots sit in an aerated reservoir. Simpler plumbing, great for beginners. See our DIY Mini DWC build guide.
• Aeroponics: Roots are misted in air. High performance, more moving parts. Our DIY aeroponic build is one of our most popular projects.
• Kratky method: Fully passive, no pump at all. The easiest entry point into hydroponics. See how to grow microgreens using the Kratky method.

If you are still deciding what to grow on, our guide to the best hydroponic grow mediums compares the most common options. For a vertical setup to hold any of these systems, our professional grow rack build guide pairs well with this one.

What You Can Grow in an NFT System

NFT is versatile. As a general rule, plants with shallow roots and fast growth cycles do best. Anything with a large, deep, or aggressive root system can block water flow through the channels and cause problems downstream.

• Leafy greens: Lettuce, spinach, kale, Swiss chard, pak choi, tatsoi, mustard greens, arugula.
• Herbs: Basil, cilantro, parsley, mint, chives, dill, fennel. Harvest often to encourage new growth.
• Microgreens and fodder: Broccoli, radish, kale, sunflower shoots, and wheatgrass fodder all do well. See our crop guides for broccoli microgreens and radish microgreens to get started.
• Edible flowers: Violas, dwarf nasturtiums, calendula, and zinnias do well. Flowering crops benefit from lights with more red spectrum.

For microgreens specifically, we use 2 inch deep trays set into the channels, three per channel. One inch trays do not work in this system because the depth is not enough for proper root development and water contact. You can find tray options in our 10x20 trays and flats collection. Grab your seed through our seed partner, True Leaf Market. We do not sell seed ourselves.

Avoid deep-rooted root vegetables like carrots, turnips, and mature radishes, and be cautious with large fruiting crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers. They can technically grow in NFT but need more support, longer grow times, and heavier nutrient loads than a first build is set up for.

Supplies and Tools You Will Need

This is a true custom build, which means sourcing from a few different places. EMT pipe and PVC are easy to find at local hardware stores, Maker Pipe connectors come from Maker Pipe, and NFT channels and end caps come from Crop King. We have linked the smaller components we can in our Amazon storefront. Here is the short version of what goes into the build.

One note on cost: we originally built this system back in 2019, and our build came to roughly $1,537.50 for all the components, not counting tools. Prices on pipe, fittings, pumps, lights, and channels shift over the years, so treat that as a ballpark and price out your own build before you start.

The Frame

• 3/4 inch EMT pipe (electrical conduit)
• Maker Pipe connectors (corners, tees, 45 degree) with heat shrink pieces
• Square, level, measuring tape, sharpie, clamp, screwdriver

The Channels and Plumbing

• PVC NFT channels with closed and open end caps
• Single-step clear, NSF-61 certified PVC cement (standard hardware store cement is not food safe)
• 1 inch PVC schedule 40 pipe with slip-fit elbows and tees for drainage
• 3/4 inch black vinyl tubing for the main water line, 1/4 inch barb connectors and tubing for feeder lines
• Shutoff valves, zip ties

Pump, Aeration, Lighting, and Fans

• Water pump and reservoir sized to your build (we ran a 1056 GPH pump and a 20 gallon reservoir for 12 channels)
• Air pump with two airstones and air tubing
• 6 foot LED shop lights, one per channel, plus a light timer, extension cord, and power strip
• USB clip fans with a speed controller

Nutrients and Monitoring

• A non-clogging, fully soluble hydroponic fertilizer (Master Blend 4-18-38 and General Hydroponics are common choices that work well)
• pH Up and pH Down, a pH meter or test kit, and an EC/TDS meter (optional but helpful)

The PDF includes the full sourcing breakdown and the exact components we used. For lighting choices specifically, our grow light guide from 7 years of testing is worth a read, and our best fertilizers and nutrients guide covers feeding in more depth.

How to Build Your NFT System (Overview)

Before you pick up a single tool, read through the whole build first and lay out your supplies. A clear picture of the full project saves a lot of time and frustration. This build involves cutting metal pipe, gluing PVC, plumbing, and electrical components near water, so wear safety glasses, gloves, and an N95 mask, secure your pipe before cutting, and work in a ventilated space. Our printable PDF includes full safety and pre-build checklist pages we strongly recommend reading first.

1. Cut and Square the Frame

Cut your 3/4 inch EMT pipe to your build's measurements. Slide a heat shrink piece onto each pipe end before inserting it into a Maker Pipe connector, then shrink it snug so connectors do not slip over time. Install your corner connectors first to square the frame, semi-tighten so you can still adjust, and use your square and level to confirm everything is true before fully tightening. This step is much easier with two people.

2. Install and Slope the Channels

Install your shelf brackets from the bottom up (we space ours about 10 inches apart, adjustable for taller crops). Glue a closed end cap on the high end of each channel and an open end cap on the low drain end using NSF-61 cement, and let everything fully cure. Dry fit each channel, then set your slope. Aim for roughly 1 inch of drop for every 4 feet of channel length so water flows freely from the inlet to the drain on every single channel. Consistent slope is one of the most important parts of the whole build.

3. Build the Drainage and Plumbing

Run your 1 inch PVC drainage column down the drain side using tees at each channel outlet, ending in an elbow that points down into the reservoir. We leave drainage fittings unglued so the system comes apart easily for cleaning. Run your 3/4 inch main water line up the back of the frame, then tee off at each shelf and drop a 1/4 inch feeder line into the high end of each channel through a small pre-drilled hole. Install shutoff valves between groups of channels (we group ours in sets of four) so you can isolate sections.

4. Set Up the Pump, Reservoir, and Aeration

Place your pump in the reservoir and connect it to the main line. Run two airstones into the reservoir and leave the air pump running 24/7, since stagnant water encourages algae and lowers oxygen at the root zone. One detail that matters more than people expect: your pump runs on a timer, not continuously. We ran ours in 15 minute cycles spread through the day (early morning through a late evening cycle so plants do not dry out overnight).

5. Mount Lights, Fans, and Timers

Install one 6 foot LED shop light per channel. Zip ties work great for mounting to the EMT pipe. Daisy chain the lights in groups of four and run each group to a single power cord, then put them on a timer. A 16 hours on, 8 hours off cycle is a solid starting point for leafy greens and herbs. Mount your clip fans on a side extension and scale airflow up as your plant mass grows.

This is the overview. For the exact cut list, every measurement, the feeder line drill details, and step-by-step photos and videos, the printable DIY NFT Build Guide PDF has the complete walkthrough. Here is our original build video, which shows the whole thing come together.

You can find this and the rest of our build and grow videos in our on-site Video Library.

Mixing Nutrients and Setting pH

Fill your reservoir with clean water first, then add a non-clogging soluble fertilizer per the manufacturer's mixing rate. Always add nutrients to water, never water to concentrated nutrients. Clogging is a real concern in NFT because the feeder lines and channels are narrow, so any undissolved particles can block flow. Mix thoroughly before it goes into the reservoir.

• Target pH: 5.5 to 6.5. Check every few days and adjust, since pH drifts as plants feed.
• Water temperature: keep it between 68 and 72 F for healthy roots. Avoid dropping below 55 F or rising above 80 F.
• Water changes: change the full solution every 1 to 2 weeks, and change immediately if the water turns cloudy, discolored, or develops an odor. Top off between changes with plain pH-adjusted water.

Adding Plants to Your System

NFT is not designed for direct seeding. The thin film of water does not provide enough consistent moisture for seeds to germinate reliably, so you start plants separately and transplant once they have roots that can reach the film. Germinate in rockwool cubes, rapid rooter plugs, or oasis cubes, keep them moist in a warm space, and move them into net cups once the root tips are long enough to touch the nutrient film. Microgreens are the exception: they go in as 2 inch deep trays set directly into the channels.

Do not rush the transplant step. Introducing plants before they have an established root system is one of the most common reasons seedlings fail. For watering fundamentals that carry over to any method, our complete microgreen watering guide is a good companion read, and our complete guide to growing microgreens covers the basics from seed to harvest.

Can You Use a Reusable Grow Medium in an NFT System?

This is one of the questions we get most often, and the honest answer is that we have not tested it ourselves in this system. We have heard from other growers who have done it successfully, though. The key is to pre-germinate your seeds first so they are well rooted into the medium before it goes into the channel. A loose or un-rooted medium will not hold up to the flowing water and the seed can wash around. If the medium is rooted in solid first, it has something to anchor to. If you want to experiment with it, our reusable silicone grow mediums are one option to try, and we would love to see how it goes for you.

Daily and Weekly Maintenance

NFT systems are largely self-running, but they rely on moving parts, and moving parts can fail. The single biggest risk is pump failure, since plants can begin to suffer within hours if flow stops. A quick daily check takes a few minutes and can save an entire crop.

• Daily: confirm water is flowing evenly through all channels, check the reservoir level, scan for leaks, look over plants for wilting or yellowing, and confirm lights are cycling correctly.
• Weekly: test and adjust pH, check EC/TDS, inspect roots (healthy roots are white to cream with fuzzy growth), wipe any algae from channel walls, and confirm feeder lines and fans are clear and running.
• Every 1 to 2 weeks: do a full water change and clean the reservoir, channels, and pump filter at the same time.

When Something Looks Off

• Yellowing leaves: check pH first, then nutrient concentration. pH out of range is the most common cause of deficiencies in hydroponics.
• Brown or slimy roots: check water temperature and aeration. Keep water below 72 F and increase aeration if needed.
• Algae: block any light reaching the reservoir or channels. Algae needs light to grow.
• One dry channel: check that channel's feeder line first, then the shutoff valve, then the main line.
• Pump running but no flow: check for blockages in the pump filter, main line, and feeder lines.

Customizing and Scaling Your Build

This system was designed to fit our specific space, and yours can look completely different. Channel count, frame height and width, shelf spacing, reservoir size, and pump size can all be adjusted. A few rules to keep in mind: the wider or taller the frame, the more structural support it needs; longer channels hold more plants but should not exceed 10 to 15 feet to prevent nutrient depletion along the length; the bigger the system, the stronger the pump and larger the reservoir; and more channels means more lights and more airflow.

Worthwhile upgrades as you get comfortable include a continuous pH and EC monitor, smart outlets to control your pump and lights remotely, a drain valve on the reservoir to make water changes easier, an inline strainer to catch debris, cross bracing for stability, and locking casters so you can move the whole system to clean underneath.

What Builders Are Saying

This build has a real community around it. Between our original build video, our update video, and Sean's take over at Molly's Micros, thousands of growers have built, adapted, and improved on this design. Here is some of what builders have shared with us.

"Clear instructions allow us to not only replicate your design but innovate as you suggest... good job" @terryholdredge6393

"This is great! I was just looking at those channels yesterday and wasn’t sure exactly how’d I’d set everything else up but this is perfect." @RionPhotography

"Thank you so much for sharing!! This is exactly what I needed. Going to ATTEMPT to build one for my home grow setup" @AnthonyGibbons90

If you build your own version, share it with us on Instagram. We love seeing what the community does with it.

Get the Complete Printable Build Guide

This blog gives you the full picture of how the system works and what it takes to build one. Our printable DIY NFT Build Guide PDF is the companion you keep in the shop while you build. It includes the exact cut list for our 12-channel system, every measurement, the precise drainage and feeder line details, full printable safety and pre-build checklist pages, and our step-by-step build videos linked throughout. If you are ready to build, that is the resource to print and work from.

Want to go deeper on every growing method, not just hydroponics? Our Microgreen Masterclass covers soil, coco coir, reusable mediums, and hydroponic growing from A to Z. You can also browse everything in our full shop.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to build a DIY NFT system?

When we built our 12-channel system back in 2019, the components came to roughly $1,537.50, not counting tools. Cost varies widely based on how many channels you build, where you source materials, and what upgrades you add, and prices have shifted over the years since. Because the build pulls from multiple suppliers (Maker Pipe, Crop King, hardware stores, and online retailers), we recommend pricing out your specific build before starting. The components we could source on Amazon are linked in our storefront.

Can you grow microgreens in an NFT system?

Yes. NFT works well for microgreens and is a good way to scale beyond a standard tray setup. We use 2 inch deep trays set into the channels, three per channel. One inch trays do not work because they are too shallow for proper root contact.

Can you use a reusable grow medium in an NFT system?

We have not tested this ourselves, but we have heard from growers who have done it successfully. The main thing is to pre-germinate your seeds so the medium is well rooted before it goes into the channel, otherwise the flowing water can move things around. If you try it, we would love to hear how it works for you.

How long until I can harvest?

It depends on the crop. Microgreens are typically ready in 7 to 14 days. Leafy greens like lettuce usually reach harvest in 4 to 6 weeks from transplant in a well-maintained system. Herbs vary by variety.

Why is one channel not getting water?

A blocked or dislodged 1/4 inch feeder line is the most common cause of a single dry channel. Check that feeder line first, then the shutoff valve for that channel group, then trace back to the main water line.

Does the pump run all the time?

No. The water pump runs on a timer in short cycles through the day, not continuously. The air pump and airstones, on the other hand, should run 24/7 to keep the reservoir oxygenated and discourage algae.

Is NFT or DWC better for beginners?

Deep Water Culture and the Kratky method are simpler entry points because they have fewer moving parts. NFT is more efficient and scalable but depends on a continuously cycling pump, so it rewards consistent daily checks. Many growers start with a simpler method and move up to NFT once they are comfortable.

Final Thoughts

An NFT system is one of the most rewarding DIY hydroponic projects out there. It is efficient, scalable, and endlessly customizable, and once it is dialed in it largely runs itself. It is also a real commitment of space and daily attention, which is exactly why we are upfront about why we eventually took ours down. If you have the room and the curiosity, it is a great build. Read through the full overview here, grab the printable guide for the exact specs, and make it your own.

The DIY build instructions in this guide are for educational purposes only and are shared based on our personal experience. Any DIY system involving water, electricity, pumps, or food production carries inherent risk. You are responsible for following all local electrical codes, plumbing codes, and safety regulations in your area. On The Grow is not responsible for injury, property damage, equipment failure, electrical accidents, water damage, or any other issue that may arise from building or operating a system based on this guide. If you are not comfortable working with electricity around water, hire a qualified electrician.

— On The Grow®, LLC

Happy growing!